For several months the lovely Sairica Rose and I had been trying to find a time when neither of us was (a) on some work-related jaunt across the world or (b) working such crazy hours that ‘free time’ was a fond and distant memory, in order to visit the Spa/Hammam she had discovered and had decided I would love. When we finally managed to fix a date and time she inevitably came down with the lurgy, so the onerous task of accompanying me to the rather fabulous Rituels d’Orient fell to Tamsin, veteran of various spa visits across the world with me including jolly Swedes with beer in Stockholm’s Centralbadet and naked supermodels in London’s Porchester.

Rituels d’Orient Barcelona is a small and subsequently exclusive hammam experience tucked away on a side street off Pl Francis Macia…I wouldn’t have known about it had it not been recommended by a friend, but it is quite the find. On arriving at the fairly unassuming shopfront you are buzzed in by one of their charming staff, and as the numbers are limited per 2-hour ‘turno’ if like us you arrive early you can sit on the be-cushioned bench provided and read about hammans in different countries and cultures all over the world, or peruse and play with the gorgeous and mostly organic La Sultana de Saba products on display.

On being summoned into the hammam area at the start of our ‘turno’ the attendant confided to us that as it was 4pm on a Wednesday afternoon there was no-one else booked in and we would be just the two of us in our own private hammam session – how fabulous! So top tip…Wednesday afternoons, or indeed just call or email to ask about which sessions are the quietest. As it was a ‘women only’ session (the website lists times for mixed and single-sex sessions) we went sans cossies, and were given a sarong-type thing to lie on, as well as a lovely big fluffy robe, which we left on the hooks provided in the small antechamber after having the hammam process explained to us.

There is one main room at 37 degrees and 80% humidity, with heated stone benches and platforms to relax on, a chilled pool (although perhaps not chilled enough for Tamsin, the only person I know who swims lengths in the 15 degree C plunge pool) and a great ‘rain’ shower with a huge brass showerhead….often in spas these are freezing cold but this one was perfect for wusses like me as it had hot and cold taps. Then there is a 42 degree, 100% humidity proper steam room…remember not to take your complementary bottle of water in with you as 40 degree water in a plastic bottle is fairly grim.

With the ‘Rituel’ we were given around 40 mins to just natter and laze around on the hot stone platforms with the occasional foray into the steam room and shower/dip to regulate our body temperature before my favourite bit, when the assistants summoned us both into the side room with two marble tables where we lay and groaned gently with pleasure as we were soaped and then fearsomely scrubbed from head to toe. There are few things quite as satisfying as the sensation of having your top few layers of epidermis and the city-grot that resides therein removed by someone with a glove essentially made from fine-grain sandpaper. Mmmmmmmmm.

After the scrub we were sent back to the main room to relax again and to marvel over our shiny new clean skin for around 20 mins before being summoned for a massage…a short 20 minute massage that was very relaxing, although if like me you prefer your massage to be quite firm you should ask for this beforehand as the default seems to be a rather gentle stroking.

Finally there is a beautiful relaxation area where we were brought mint tea and little pastries to bring up our blood pressure/sugar…as the changing rooms/shower area is quite small this is perfect if you are in a group as you can relax and shower/change in shifts before emerging blinking into the Barcelona sunlight ready for a couple of cocktails to undo all that lovely de-toxing…

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One of the things I knew would be tricky when avoiding supermarkets is buying cleaning products. I know I could just go to a local ‘corner shop’ and pay a bit more for the same brands I would get in the supermarket, but somehow that feels like cheating – not really in the spirit of what I’m trying to achieve – particularly the bit about trying to buy organic and fair trade where possible.

Fortunately the lovely people at the Xarxa Consum Solidari / Red Consumo Solidario came to my rescue. The Xarxa/Red is a network of organisations supporting fair trading practices and responsible consumption – they source locally where possible (the fruit juice and veggies might be from down the road, but the coffee and rum may have travelled a bit) and all products are fair trade or have a fair trade element as well as being organic where relevant. Transparency is a big deal with them, and on their site you can download a dossier on each product detailing all the cost elements including transport, packaging, the margin taken by the shop etc.

Xarxa Consum Solidari have a number of shops in Barcelona and you can find out more about them here

The Xarxa Consum Solidari shop on Pl. Sant Agusti Vell

Anyway, the point is that they stock the Lympha range of products which comprises laundry detergent, washing-up (dishes) liquid, spray cleaner for surfaces, floor cleaner and liquid hand soap.

Lympha is the result of a collaboration between an Italian Fair Trade collective (Mondo Solidale) and a Brazilian NGO Assema (site in Portuguese). Assema works with small local producers to provide an alternative to the huge industrial palm oil factory-farms which are contributing massively to deforestation, and fights for the rights of the indigenous coco palm nut pickers. You can find out more about this issue here and here

As well as the natural surfactants produced from this organic, fairly traded coco palm oil, the other ingredients in all Lympha products are fair trade and organic where possible; for example the essential oils used as antiseptics and scents are supplied by an NGO in Southern India ‘Sipa’.

On both the Lympha website and the packaging of the products there is not only a list of ingredients but a description of what each ingredient is, what it does, why it is included, how it biodegrades and how it was sourced; something I find fascinating if only because it simply never crossed my mind to ask the question before.

So far I have tested the laundry detergent and the washing-up liquid:

The washing-up liquid is very gently lemon-scented and quite runny even though it is supposedly a concentrate. Already I prefer it to the neon green, gloopy, chemically smelling stuff that comes from the supermarket and it seems to be doing the job.

The laundry detergent is *very* concentrate. Because they recommend around 80ml for an average wash – about half the amount of the previous liquid I was using – I was a bit suspicious that it wouldn’t be enough. The liquid is very mildly scented with lavender which I don’t find too offensive. Even better, when the laundry emerges from the machine it doesn’t smell of some marketing focus-group’s idea of clean laundry mixed up in a test-tube somewhere outside Dusseldorf; it smells…well….clean! I didn’t even notice a lavender smell on individual garments, although on passing the drying rack I did notice that when hung out all together the clothes did exude a very faint and not unpleasant lavendery scent.

Most importantly however: IT WORKS!!

Crucially for my lifestyle, it passed not only the red wine test, but the ‘eating Ben & Jerry’s choclate ice cream in bed’ test as well. Genius!

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One of my goals for this ethical shopping adventure was to avoid buying thoughtlessly from ‘Big Pharma’ companies, partly because I disagree with some of their lobbying tactics and partly because I want to support smaller companies trying to provide alternatives.

So far I’ve found several great places to buy handmade, natural soaps (see here for details about one of them) and I am currently experimenting with some organic, fair trade cleaning products…article coming soon about that little project. Some products have been stumping me though, one of them being toothpaste.

There are, of course, a number of ‘natural’ toothpastes on the market. The problem I have discovered is that most of their manufacturers seem to believe that fluoride is the source of all the world’s woes, from widespread cancer to the assassination of JFK.

I on the other hand, as a nocturnal teethgrinder (yes – yuck, I know!), believe that fluoride is my friend; the only thing between me and a mouthful of expensive crowns where I have worn away my tooth enamel. Lucky me then when I popped into the lovely Granola in Sant Pere for some Call Valls fruit juice (more about these local fruit growers another time) to discover that they stock a range of products by German cosmetics company ‘Lavera’, including *hooray!* a toothpaste containing fluoride:On further investigation Lavera seem to be a good source of cosmetics for anyone with sensitive skin and/or concerned about the ingredients in their health & beauty products. Their website is excellent, listing all the ingredients they use with a brief description of each and how it is sourced. Even if you don’t buy from them, it’s a useful place to learn about the ‘small print’ ingredients that appear in so many of the lotions and potions that we spray, squirt and smear on ourselves!

The toothpaste contains a pretty basic set of ingredients including a mint flavouring (organic!)…not overwhelming in a Colgate-style firey peppermint way but enough to give you a fresh feeling. It also includes titanium dioxide as a mildly abrasive stain-removing/whitening agent, which might put some people off, but as I get a much higher dose of TD via the sun creams I slather on myself from May to September I can’t say it bothers me.

I suppose I should really be using a neem stick or some kind of baking-soda and tea-tree mixture to clean my teeth in order to avoid mass manufacturing and chemical ingredients, but frankly I have my limits, and the lovely Lavera falls nicely within them.

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